A new roof in Potton, from natural slate and clay tiles to EPDM flat roof systems, involves every stage of the work from the first inspection through to final clean-up.
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A new roof is not simply a case of laying new tiles over the old ones. Done properly, it means stripping the existing structure back, inspecting every element underneath, and rebuilding from the deck upward with materials suited to the property and, where relevant, to any planning conditions. This page walks through each stage of that process so you know exactly what to expect before any work starts.
Before any price is agreed or any materials are ordered, a roofer should get up and look at the existing roof properly. This means checking the condition of the timbers (rafters, ridge board, purlins), the state of any existing felt underlay, and whether the fascias and soffits are sound enough to reuse. On older properties, you may also find lead flashings around chimney stacks, valleys and abutments that need assessing separately.
A common problem at this stage is finding that what looked like a straightforward tile replacement is actually sitting on rotted or deflected roof timbers. Identifying that before work starts means the quote reflects the real job, not just the surface one. Ask the roofer to put in writing what the inspection found and what it does not cover.
Once the scope is agreed, materials are ordered to suit the property. Clay plain tiles are commonly used on older or traditionally built homes where the pitch allows; concrete interlocking tiles suit a wider range of pitches and are a practical choice on many post-war houses. Natural slate is used where either the original roof was slate or where appearance matters and a planning condition may apply. There is a meaningful difference between natural Welsh or Spanish slate and fibre-cement alternatives, and any roofer should be able to explain the difference in weight loading, appearance and how long each typically lasts.
Scaffold access is arranged at this point. A full scaffold is not always needed for a straightforward re-roof, but it is needed whenever a team will be working for more than a day or two, or where the roof is over two storeys. Access planning is also the moment to flag any issues with neighbours or tight side passages.
Stripping starts at the ridge and works downward. Tiles are removed and set aside or skipped depending on condition. Ridge and hip tiles are usually replaced rather than reused. The old roofing felt or sarking is stripped back to the rafters. At this point the full condition of the timber structure becomes visible for the first time.
If any rafters are found to be cracked, twisted or affected by rot, they need to be sistered (a new length fixed alongside the damaged one) or replaced before the new roof goes on. Skipping this step because it costs more is how a new roof develops problems within a few years. Any reputable roofer will document what they find when the strip-out is done and discuss options before proceeding.
Lead work around chimneys and valleys is normally removed at this stage. Old stepped or cover flashings rarely bed down well once disturbed, so replacing them as part of the re-roof is sound practice rather than a luxury. Lead is still the standard choice for flashings on pitched roofs; it outlasts most alternatives when properly dressed.
Modern breathable membrane underlay goes over the rafters before any battens are fixed. This layer keeps wind-driven rain out if a tile is ever displaced, and allows moisture vapour from inside the house to pass through rather than condense in the roof void. Older properties often have the original bitumen felt, which is not breathable and becomes brittle over time. Replacing it with a breathable membrane is a straightforward improvement that makes a measurable difference to loft conditions.
Treated tanalised battens are then fixed at centres calculated for the tile gauge. The gauge depends on the pitch of the roof and the tile specified. Getting this right matters: tiles fixed at the wrong gauge will not overlap correctly and will either sit proud or not shed water as they should.
Tiles are fixed from the eaves upward. On a correctly set-out roof, the tile courses align with windows, verges and hips without having to cut awkward pieces. Cutting is still needed at valleys, verges and around any penetrations such as soil pipes or rooflights, and it is in these details that the quality of the work is most visible. Cut slates and tiles should be neat, supported and fixed, not just bedded in mortar and left to rely on adhesion alone.
Ridge tiles are the last element to go on the main slope. Dry-fix ridge systems, which use a mechanical fixing rail and ventilated end caps rather than mortar bedding, are now standard practice. Mortar-bedded ridges are still used and are not wrong, but they do require ongoing maintenance as the mortar eventually cracks and needs repointing.
Any chimney stacks, parapet walls or roof abutments need lead or suitable flashing taken back into the masonry. This is one of the most failure-prone areas on any roof. Lead should be properly stepped into the mortar joints (not simply surface-fixed), dressed neatly and clipped where required. Open valleys lined with code 4 or 5 lead are still a reliable choice on pitched roofs with complex geometry.
Once all the tiling and leadwork is complete, a good roofer walks the roof to check alignment, pointing, and that no tiles have been left loose. Gutters and downpipes should be cleared of debris created during the strip-out. Scaffold and skips are removed, and the site is left clean. You should be able to walk around the property and not find displaced tiles, broken ridge fittings, or mortar splashes on the brickwork.
Ask to be shown any photographs the roofer has taken during the job, particularly of the timber inspection and the lead details. These are useful records if any questions arise later.
Ask what the roofer will do if rotted timbers are found once stripping starts. Ask whether the price includes disposal of the old materials. Ask what underlay system is being used and why. Ask whether the ridge will be dry-fixed or mortar-bedded, and what that means for future maintenance. These are not awkward questions; they are the ones a roofer who does the job properly will expect and answer clearly.
Cambridge Roofers carries out new roof installations in Potton and the surrounding area, including nearby towns such as Royston, as well as further afield across Cambridgeshire. If you have a new roof coming up and want to talk through what the job involves before committing to anything, call us for a roof survey and we will give you a clear picture of what is needed.
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