Cambridge Roofers installs new roofs in Cottenham, from traditional clay and concrete tiles to natural slate, handling every stage from stripping the old structure to the finished ridge.
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Installing a new roof is one of the most significant investments a homeowner makes. The roof itself can perform well for decades, but only if the installation is done properly and a small amount of attention is paid in the years that follow. On this page we cover what a new roof installation involves, the materials and choices available, and - because it matters just as much - the straightforward aftercare that keeps a new roof in sound condition long after we have finished.
A full new roof starts with stripping everything back to the rafters: old tiles, battens, and the underlay beneath them. Once the timber is exposed, it is checked for rot, woodworm, or damage. Any rafters or ridge boards that have failed are repaired or replaced before a single new tile goes on. Skipping this stage is where problems begin on cheaper jobs.
New breathable underlay is fitted first, then treated timber battens at spacings suited to the tile or slate chosen. The tiles are hung from the bottom course up, with each row lapped correctly over the one below. Ridge tiles are bedded or mechanically fixed at the apex. Lead or aluminium flashing is dressed into chimneys, abutments, and valleys. The final job is pointing any mortar work and clearing all debris from gutters and the roof surface.
Material choice affects how the roof looks, how long it lasts, and whether it is acceptable under any local planning conditions. For most homes in Cottenham the practical options are:
If your home is in or near a conservation area, the local planning authority may specify the type of tile or slate required. We will check this with you before any material is ordered.
New roof costs in Cambridgeshire typically range from around £5,000 to £9,000 for a standard semi-detached house, and from £8,000 to £15,000 or more for a larger detached property. Natural slate sits at the top of that range; concrete tiles at the lower end. The figures depend on roof size, pitch, the number of hips and valleys, chimney stacks, and the condition of the timber beneath. Any comparison of quotes should check whether the price includes lead flashing, new underlay, batten replacement, and disposal of the old materials.
A properly installed new roof needs very little from you in the first several years. But a small amount of routine attention genuinely does extend the life of the roof and prevents expensive repairs later. The following is not about constant maintenance - it is about knowing what to look for and when to act.
Blocked gutters are the single most common cause of avoidable damage to a roof that is otherwise in good condition. When gutters overflow, water runs back behind the fascia and soaks the first few courses of tiles from underneath. Over time, this causes the battens directly beneath those tiles to rot, and then the tiles above them to slip. Clearing gutters in autumn after leaf fall, and again in spring if moss is present, is the most useful thing a homeowner can do. A blocked downpipe is just as damaging as a blocked gutter - check that water flows freely to ground level.
Moss holds moisture against the tile surface. On clay tiles this accelerates the freeze-thaw cycle that causes face spalling (where the surface layer flakes away). On concrete tiles it can lift the surface coating and allow water to penetrate. Moss also works its way under tile edges and lifts them slightly, creating entry points for wind-driven rain.
A biocide treatment applied every few years kills moss and algae without the risk of high-pressure washing, which can damage the surface of both clay and concrete tiles and strip granules from felt underlay exposed at verges. Low-pressure application followed by natural die-back over several weeks is the standard approach. Do not pressure-wash a tiled roof yourself - it is a common source of damage that looks invisible until the next hard frost.
Lead flashing works by being dressed tightly into joints and mortar. Over time, thermal expansion and contraction causes mortar pointing around flashings to crack and pull away slightly. A small gap here lets water track down behind the flashing and into the roof at chimney abutments, parapet walls, or valley gutters. A visual check from ground level after a hard winter costs nothing. If the mortar line around a flashing looks cracked or hollow, call a roofer to re-point it before the next rain cycle works water into the structure.
Lead itself rarely fails if it was installed correctly and at the right weight. Problems with lead are almost always at the joints and pointing, not the lead sheet itself.
A single slipped tile is a ten-minute repair. Left for a season, it becomes water damage to the batten, then rot to the rafter below, and sometimes internal ceiling damage that triggers a much larger bill. Binoculars from ground level are enough to spot a tile that has dropped or shifted. Tiles slip for two main reasons: the nail holding them has rusted through, or the batten beneath has rotted. Both are signs that a section of the roof has reached the end of its serviceable life, which is useful information for planning any future work.
Modern breathable underlay allows moisture vapour to pass through from the roof space, but the roof space still needs adequate air movement to prevent condensation building up on timber. Ridge vents, eaves vents, or tile vents at regular intervals are part of a correctly specified new roof. If your loft feels noticeably damp after cold spells, or you find moisture on the underside of the rafters, the ventilation needs reviewing. This is not a structural problem in most cases, but persistent condensation will eventually cause timber decay that is expensive to fix.
Roofing is a specialist trade. A general builder can handle many repairs, but for anything involving lead, valley gutters, or the structural integrity of the roof, use a roofer who installs roofs as their main work. Call us to arrange a roof survey if you have not had one since the roof was installed, or if you have noticed any of the issues above.
We install new roofs across Cambridge and the surrounding area, including Cottenham and nearby villages. We work with clay tiles, concrete tiles, and natural slate, and we match the material to the property rather than to what happens to be cheapest on the day. We strip fully, replace damaged timber, fit breathable underlay and treated battens, and finish with proper lead or aluminium flashing at every junction. We do not cut corners on the parts of the roof that are invisible once the tiles are on - those are the parts that determine how long the roof lasts.
If you are thinking about a new roof or have concerns about an existing one, call us for a roof survey. We will give you a straightforward assessment of what is needed and a clear written price before any work starts.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.