Cambridge Roofers fits timber, composite, fibre cement, and metal exterior cladding to homes and commercial buildings across Cambridge - tackling the warning signs early saves money and protects the structure underneath.
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Most cladding jobs begin not with a sudden catastrophe but with small signals that are easy to ignore. Recognising those signals early is the difference between a straightforward re-clad and an expensive repair to the wall structure beneath. This page focuses on what to look for, what causes each problem, and what happens if you leave it.
Timber cladding - particularly featheredge softwood - expands and contracts with moisture. Over time this cycling opens gaps between boards, and once water gets behind the cladding it has nowhere obvious to go. The battens rot first, then moisture works into the wall construction behind.
Composite and fibre cement boards are far more dimensionally stable, but they still crack if they were installed without adequate movement gaps at the joints, or if fixings were over-driven and the board edge has split. A crack in a fibre cement board is not cosmetic; it is a water entry point.
If internal plaster or paint near an exterior wall is blistering or staining, the wall itself may be damp. Failed cladding is one common cause. The wall is drawing moisture in through the cladding layer, and that moisture is working its way through the insulation and membrane before appearing indoors. By the time you see it inside, the problem outside has usually been present for at least one winter.
Green or black biological growth on cladding is not just unsightly. On timber it signals that the protective finish - oil, stain or paint - has broken down and the board is absorbing moisture. On composite or metal it usually means water is pooling in a place it should not be, often because a trim detail has lifted or a sealant joint has failed.
Pressure-washing alone does not fix the underlying cause. If the finish has failed, it needs stripping and recoating or the boards need replacing.
Soffits and fascias sit at the junction between the roof and the wall, and they take a significant share of wind-driven rain. UPVC soffits crack and yellow with age; timber soffits and fascias rot when their paint coat is neglected. Once the fascia board is soft, water tracks down behind the top course of cladding, accelerating the damage there too. It is common to address soffits and fascias at the same time as re-cladding, because the access scaffolding is already in place.
Understanding the cause matters, because fitting new cladding over an unresolved problem just buries it.
Cladding is a separate rain-screen layer fixed to the outside of a building. It keeps wind and rain off the structural wall, improves thermal performance when combined with insulation, and gives the building a finished appearance. It is used on extensions, gable ends, full elevations, and commercial buildings of all types.
When insulation is installed behind the cladding - typically rigid foam or mineral wool boards fixed to the wall before the batten frame goes on - the improvement to the building's thermal performance can be significant. This is often called an external wall insulation system, and it is worth discussing if your walls are un-insulated solid masonry.
Timber cladding is the most widely recognised option. Featheredge softwood is traditional and affordable; it can be pressure-treated for longevity, or left to weather naturally to a silver-grey. Hardwood species such as larch and cedar are more durable and need less maintenance, but cost more upfront. All timber cladding needs a ventilated cavity behind it.
Composite cladding combines wood fibre with polymer. It will not rot, does not need painting, and holds its colour well. It is heavier than softwood and costs more per metre, but the ongoing maintenance requirement is close to zero. It suits busy homeowners who do not want to think about the exterior every few years.
Fibre cement cladding is made from cement, sand and cellulose fibre. It is non-combustible, dimensionally stable and resistant to insects and rot. It is widely specified on commercial buildings and is increasingly popular on extensions and new builds. It can be factory-finished in a range of colours and profiles.
Metal cladding - typically aluminium or steel with a powder-coated or anodised finish - is the most durable of the four and requires the least maintenance over its life. It is most common on commercial and industrial buildings but is used on contemporary residential projects too. The upfront cost is the highest.
Installed costs vary considerably by material, area and access. As a general guide for the Cambridge area: treated softwood featheredge typically runs from around £40 to £60 per square metre installed; composite cladding from around £80 to £120 per square metre; fibre cement from around £70 to £110 per square metre; and metal cladding from around £100 to £160 or more per square metre depending on the system. These are indicative figures and a specific price needs a site visit once the wall preparation, batten work and trim details are understood.
Scaffolding is almost always needed for a full elevation and adds a fixed cost that does not scale proportionally with the wall area - one reason why it often makes sense to address all elevations or several jobs at once while access is in place.
If you have spotted any of the warning signs above on your Cambridge home or building, call us to arrange a roof and exterior survey. We will tell you honestly what we find, what the options are, and what the likely cost will be before any work is agreed.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
